鹹香與酸辣的香濃氣息 _ 煙花女義大利麵

鹹香與酸辣的香濃氣息　煙花女義大利麵

Savory, Zesty, Aromatic Spaghetti Alla Puttanesca

在所有的義大利料理中，義大利麵絕對是最普遍、最廣為人知且最富變化的菜餚。不同的的麵條種類、調味醬與烹調方式，共可變幻出1000多種義大利麵風味，相當驚人！

The most iconic Italian dish known to mankind is probably pasta. It is versatile and comes in all shapes and sizes for specific dishes. In fact there’s actually over 1000 variations of pasta!

義大利麵，義語為Pasta，源自於拉丁語，英文也沿用這個字，意思是「麵團」。一般的義大利直麵稱為Spaghetti，依據不同粗細而有以下稱呼：Spaghettoni是較厚的義大利粉；Spaghettini是較細的義大利麵；Capellini是更細的義大利麵，又稱為「天使（細）麵」。不同形狀的義大利麵也有相異的名稱，例如：通心粉（Maccheroni、Cannolicchi medi或Rigatoni）、斜管麵（Penne）、螺絲粉（Fusilli、Gemelli或Rotini）、千層麵（Lasagna）、貝殼麵（Conchigliette或Conchiglioni），甚至是義式餛飩（tortellini）等等，種類繁多。

The word Pasta originates from the Latin language and it means dough. The most common form of pasta would be Spaghetti but there’s actually capellini aka angel hair because of its thinness; Rigatoni which is a thick version of tubed pasta; Fusilli, a spiral shaped pasta and many many more .

義大利麵的起源

The origin of Pasta : Age of Roman Empire

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從羅馬帝國的麵食說起 關於義大利麵的起源與演變軌跡，也是眾說紛紜。有人追溯自西元前12世紀至前6世紀，位於義大利半島中北部的「伊特拉斯坎文明」，但並未被廣泛接受。而約於西元前1世紀的羅馬皇帝屋大維時期，富裕的羅馬帝國因人口急遽增加而造成糧食短缺問題，於是大量生產一種起源於古希臘時期，可長期保存的餅狀麵團，稱為Lagana，並成為羅馬人的主食。這也是義大利最早可溯源的麵食之一。

The origin of Age of Roman Empire There's many variations to finding the root and one of them can be dated between 12th century BC to 6th century BC, located north central Italy (Etruscans Civilisations). It was not popularized and adopted till 1st Century AD with the rise of the Roman Empire, the increase in population led to food shortage and then came about Lagana(a preserved dough) became the main staple. That is possibly the earliest indicative source to pasta.

有趣的是，2世紀羅馬帝國的埃及學者阿特納奧斯（Athenaeus）在《智者之宴》（Deipnosophistae）一書中，整理Lagana的各種食用方式，可說是最早的Lagana食譜。而千層麵（Lasagna）就是將Lagana的麵片和肉醬交疊而製成的料理，從義語字源就可以看出它是從Lagana演變而來的。

Interestingly enough during the 2nd century AD, Egyptian born scholar Athenaeus documented in his book “Deipnosophistae” about the preparation of Lagana. The recipe mentioned about layering the pasta in between meat sauce and that is what we know today as Lasagna.

多元文明的交織與流轉：麵食文化在地中海區域的發展

Early Migration: Food influence and development

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約莫6、7世紀，阿拉伯人佔領義大利的西西里島，並將中國條狀麵食的吃法，以及現今傳統義大利麵的原料「杜蘭小麥」傳入地中海一帶。因此義大利麵是一種最先由阿拉伯人傳入原料與製作方式，並在西西里島開始流行的麵食。而義大利麵是馬可波羅東遊後從中國傳至歐洲的說法，應該只是附會之說。到了11世紀，已出現關於義大利麵的食譜；13世紀時，義大利麵已普遍成為義大利人的主食，並透過當時重要的貿易港口──西西里島的巴勒摩，向地中海周圍的國家傳播。此時的「義大利麵」已和現今的料理方式相當接近。

Early 6-7th Century AD, the Arabics lived on Sicily Island and adopted China’s way of eating stranded dough staple. By combining local ingredients of wheat, the thinly stranded noodle-like staple quickly became a popular food choice. Many argued that spaghetti was actually introduced by Marco Polo when he visited China and that was how this saying came about.

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文藝復興時期（14至16世紀），各式各樣的配料與醬汁搭配不同麵條，使得義大利麵的口味愈加豐富多變；地理大發現（15至17世紀）之後，各種從美洲進口的蔬菜，也開始被嘗試運用在義大利麵中烹調。威尼斯在1740年誕生第一家專門製作義大利麵麵條的工廠，而番茄也約莫在此時逐漸成為義大利麵的配料，衍生出許多經典的義大利麵口味，例如「番茄肉醬義大利麵」（Spaghetti Bolognese），就是從北方的波隆那開始流傳的。19世紀全歐洲都可見到義大利麵的蹤跡，直至今日成為全球知名的義大利料理。 

By 13th Century AD, spaghetti quickly became a very popular staple within the whole of Italy. During the renaissance, there were already many different kinds of pasta with sauces and there were many different favor profiled pastas. Later with trade influences the first commercial pasta factory was born in Venice. Many classic dishes also came about after pasta was made more easily accessible and one of which would be Spaghetti Bolognese which came from Bologna, a classic dish with a marriage of tomato, meat and pasta.

煙花女義大利麵：風塵女郎的大補丸

Spaghetti Alla Puttanesca: A controversial pasta

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關於煙花女義大利麵（spaghetti alla puttanesca）的由來，可以從字面上望文生義。義語Puttana是指「娼妓」，傳說她們在等恩客上門之前，會先到隔壁的餐館享用這道料理，補充體力後再準備「上路」。飽餐一頓後的香濃氣味容易吸引男人光顧，正可說是「吃了再上」！所以這道菜又俗稱「妓女麵」，「煙花女麵」則是譯成中文後較為含蓄文雅的稱呼。既重鹹又酸辣的濃烈氣息，就像豪放不羈的風塵女郎一般，因此「煙花女麵」又是一種形容和隱喻的修辭法。

Origin from Naples, the surface interpretation of “puttana” means roughly “whore” or “prostitute”. It was rumored to be consumed by sex workers for its strong flavors gave them appetite to eat. The sauce is very savory, sour and has a strong aroma from garlic, anchovies, tomato, spice and capers hence resemblance to perfume worn by the women.

另外一則故事就更有趣了。在1950年代的拿坡里，某天有一群客人在打烊的酒館裡大鬧一場，硬是要老闆端出一道料理來，甚至有人餓到脫口而出：「給老子來一盤他X的什麼能吃的都好」（義語：Facci una puttanata qualsiasi），於是老闆急中生智，將冰箱中僅存的幾項配料做成醬汁，淋上麵條就趕緊端上桌。沒想到這臨時抱佛腳的料理，卻讓眾人讚不絕口，此後老闆就在菜單裡添加Spaghetti alla Puttanesca這道料理，也就是「煙花女義大利麵」，如今已成為義大利麵中經典的口味。

However there was another clarification to the meaning of dish as it meant “give me whatever you have” where the chef basically threw all leftover ingredients into the pan and created the dish.

煙花女義大利麵中有三個主角：橄欖、酸豆和鯷魚，鹹中帶酸還添了點辛辣感，觸動著食客的味蕾，複雜濃郁的香氣，難怪會聯想到風塵味。豪邁奔放的口感使它在義大利麵裡有著特殊地位，只要嚐過就令人難忘。煙花女義大利麵在不同地區也有其他的調味方式：橄欖和酸豆是基本款，拉齊奧地區會使用鯷魚和蒜頭做搭配，這種烹調方式較為普遍；而坎帕尼亞地區則省去了鯷魚，改用黑胡椒和洋蔥去提味。無論淡妝或濃抹，各有風情。

This Pasta basically has 3 main components : capers, olives and anchovies. It is very salty with anchovies and sour from the capers. It has good flavor memory and was widely well received.

混搭風味迸發出狂野熱舞：糊塗里的煙花女義麵醬

糊塗里的煙花女義麵醬，使用鯷魚、酸豆、黑橄欖、洋蔥、辣椒、番茄等食材，結合拉齊奧與坎帕尼亞兩地的優點，混搭出獨特的風味。鹹、香、甜、辣等繽紛味覺，就在不斷堆疊的過程中，在嘴裡迸發出狂野的熱舞。搭配微醺的美酒，展現自己最亮麗動人的一面！煙花女的濃烈氣息帶出豐富滋味，細細品嚐，讓眾多味覺在口中翻攪，繁複口感隨之而來的是單純的幸福！糊塗里不但蘊藏的精巧美食，更讓文化引領你遨遊不同的國度，漫遊全世界。

Anchovies, capers, olives, onion, chili, tomato, black pepper - A marriage of Lazio and Naples styled version of the dish. Providing a robust flavor profile of savory, aromatics, sweet, spicy. Every bite of it is like fireworks in your mouth. Pairing with a classic Italian Chianti, one could wish for nothing more.