周末午後的療癒美食 _ 各式口味的經典淡菜料理

周末午後的療癒美食　各式口味的經典淡菜料理

Healing Food for a Weekend Afternoon
Classic mussel cuisines in all flavors

淡菜屬於貝類海鮮的一種，英文稱作Mussel，又稱為「貽貝」、「殼菜」、「青口」。據說去殼曬乾的蚌肉不須加鹽，就有清淡的鮮味，故名「淡菜」。關於淡菜名稱的由來另有一說：南海一帶的蜑戶（蜑，音ㄉㄢˋ）以挖蚌取珠維生，剩餘的蚌肉僅兼作食物，對「蜑」戶而言，蚌肉就如同隨處可食的「菜」。原本的「蜑菜」就被誤傳，寫成了「淡菜」。原來淡菜原是一種比喻，知道這個典故真是長知識了！

Mussel is a type of shellfish, also known as "Dancai" in Mandarin and "Ibel", "Kecai" and "Qinko" in other languages. Mussel can be used fresh, frozen and even dried which gives it a light salted umami taste hence the name "Dancai" relates to light dish or light vegetables. There is however another saying which is from people living near South China Sea known as "Dan" digs mussels for pearls where the remains used as food supplements. Mussels are like staples which can be eaten on most occassions and using it as a dish which also refers to "Cai" in Mandarin. Thus "Dancai" also means the dish of the "Dan" people. 

淡菜是全球養殖漁業的大宗，盛產於北美、北歐和澳洲，台灣主要養殖區在馬祖，外觀較大且肉質肥美，盛產期是每年的6到12月。不僅可入菜，且極具營養價值；中醫也納為藥材作使用，亦具食療功效，不但能降低發炎反應，還可增進男性的性功能，效果勝過生蠔，可說是海鮮界頂級的威而鋼。料理方式也相當多元，可蒸、炒、烤或作成煲湯。例如，與韭菜或芹菜拌炒，成為一道清爽的海鮮佳餚；亦可和其他海鮮共同烹調，如「淡菜螃蟹湯」；或是搭配華人的主食米飯，熬成「淡菜粥」等等。

Mussels contributes greatly to the global fishery industry especially in North America, Northern Europe and Australia. Taiwan's Matsu Island also produces good quality Mussel known for its great texture and large plump size. The harvest season is usually from June to December and Mussels have great nutrional values apart for being great delicacies. It is widely used in Chinese Medicine for its medicinal and healing effects such as reducing inflammation, increases quality of semen for men and studies have suggested it to be more aphrodisiac then oysters. Mussels are very versatile when it comes to preparing. It can be steamed, fried, grilled or even use in soups.

Photo by min che from Pexels

歐洲的家常菜：各國美味的淡菜料理
Home cooking in Europe: delicious mussel cuisines from all over the world.

淡菜在歐美餐廳常作為開胃菜登場，例如比利時的國菜就是「淡菜配薯條」（Moules-frites）。想吃清淡一點，撒點洋蔥、西洋芹再摻點白酒烹調，品嚐淡菜的原始風味；喜愛重口味的朋友，可以混搭奶油或蒜末食用。它的配料單純，製作方式也很簡單，是比利時家喻戶曉的國民美食，據說光是口味就有二、三十種，多變的風味也證明它是「百搭款的海鮮」。

Mussels are widely used as entres in typical European and American restaurants. "Moules frites" (Mussels with French fries) for example is a national dish of Belgium. Usually sauteed in onions, celery, garlic and finishing off with white wine and cream depending on individuals, there's more then 20 variations of recipes across Belgium. The versatility nature of it really propelled it to becoming a "universal seafood". 

法國人則把淡菜當作法國麵包的沾料來食用，「白酒淡菜鍋」更是有名的法國菜，僅放點奶油和一些辛香料簡單調味；英國人喜歡配蘋果酒，先用一些蒜頭和培根爆香，再放入淡菜和蘋果酒拌炒，蘋果的微酸更能襯托出淡菜的甜味，最後添加一點奶油真是絕配；「西班牙海鮮燉飯」也少不了淡菜，各種海鮮和肉品搭配橄欖油和番紅花以增添風味；摩洛哥的「塔吉鍋」裡，滿滿的海鮮佐以番茄、料理用酒、鹽和薑等配料，也一定有淡菜的蹤跡；土耳其人最豪邁，直接下鍋油炸，沾著酸奶醬享用；喜歡義大利料理的朋友一定曉得，「漁夫番茄義大利麵」裡，一顆美味的淡菜具有畫龍點睛之效！在歐式海鮮料理中，淡菜可說是常客中的常客。

The French eats mussels with French bread and "Moules Marinieres" (Mussesl in White Wine) is the best interpretation of it. Cooked with cream, white wine and spices and the juices used a dipping sauce for the bread. British presented it more as a pub dish where they too have their take on cooking the Mussels in alcohol but now with Cider. Sauteed onion, bacon for smokiness together with Mussels and finally finishing it off with Cider and abit of cream. The tartness of cider bringing out more sweetness of the Mussels is becoming a popular way of preparing it. Spanish uses it in paella, Morrocans in Tagines and even Turks deep frying it and pair with yoghurt. It is evident enough that the versatility of mussel is truely a very popular seafood.

油封：保存食材鮮味的神奇烹飪法
Confit: The magic recipe for preserving the umami of ingredients.

Photo by annaiva95 from envato elements

「油封淡菜」則是另一種舊瓶裝新酒的烹調方式。油封（Confit）料理始於古代法國，原是一種利用油脂保存肉品的烹飪技術：以鹽醃漬肉類（一開始是鴨肉，後來應用到豬肉和鵝肉等），利用本身的油脂低溫烘烤，最後封存起來，以便在寒冬中長期食用，故名「油封」。後來發現，油封還有神奇的魔法！不但能使肉質更加軟嫩鮮美，剩餘的油脂又可作為風味油入菜，一舉兩得。於是油封烹飪法廣為流傳，直至今日造就許多知名的油封料理。

“Mussel confit" is a combination of versatile ingredient cooked with traditional culinary technique. Confit is a way of cooking the meat in its own fat in a relative lower heat. The whole process is tedious and needs to be careful as the cooking temperature will change the texture of the protein. Confit is widely used in Avian protein and slowly extend to pork. It preserves the meat as it is cooked in oil for longer storage purpose, locking flavors within as well as providing a tender texture to the protein.

最經典的就是「法式油封鴨」，使用鹽巴、蒜頭及多種香草佐料醃漬，並浸泡在橄欖油中冷藏，最後再取出烘烤，是最為世人所知的高檔法國菜。另外蔬菜水果也可油封製成風味獨特的料理，如「普羅旺斯燉菜」即為南法的家常料理、「油封番茄」更是歐洲家庭的常備開胃菜。另外，油封大蒜、油封五花肉、油封鮭魚、油封干貝牡蠣，甚至是道地台灣味的油封虱目魚，油封烹飪法可應用的料理多不勝數。

From traditional "French Duck Confit" to recent trending garlic confit, we can truely appreciate the wisdom from the past. The technique has been adopted and heavily improvised in our current time.

糊塗里私房油封淡菜：西班牙的濃烈風情
Confit de Moules

糊塗里採用歐洲進口頂級淡菜，並以西班牙風格來呈現。先以煙燻低溫烘烤，並使用糊塗里自製辣油醃漬，佐以蛤蜊汁鹹甜的香氣。這樣的油封烹調，不但保留淡菜原始的鮮美海味，重口味的辣油更增添層次豐富的味覺饗宴，滿滿西班牙的濃烈風情。

Dotard Village has an interesting take on this versatile ingredient, they have adpoted an traditional cooking method however giving it more fiesty character cooking it with more Spanish style. Confit in homemade chilli oil and spices, the chef hopes to better bring out the sweetness of Mussel to contrast against the spice.

西餐永遠少不了餐酒，而白酒則是海鮮的最佳夥伴。糊塗里的油封淡菜搭配德國的甜雷斯令（Riesling），能中和佐料的辛辣感；白蘇維儂（Sauvignon Blanc）的花草香，能提升油封淡菜的鮮味，也是上上之選。

Rounding the flavourful experience with a dry Riesling. The whole experience aims at bringing out the best of the Mussels, extracting every bit of sweetness of it. If you prefer something more floral, they suggest a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand which its subtle grass nose notes adds more earthiness to the fiesty Mussel, giving it a good balance and round off too.

想不到，一顆淡菜竟然蘊含這麼多豐富的飲食文化！經過適當的烹調，不但能品嚐淡菜本身的鮮美，搭配熱騰騰的薯條，酥脆與軟嫩的雙重口感是極致的享受；一杯蘋果酒和白酒，也能以香氣提升味蕾的層次。糊塗里的油封淡菜又有不同風采，混搭獨特的自製辣油，幸福美味就在講究的食材與手藝中孕育而出。

Without a doubt, Mussels have attached itself to food culture and habits across the globe. Be it paired with hot fries, bread or even staple it can prove to be an ultimate comfort food. Pair with a glass of white wine it brings delicate taste profile, pair it with cider it brings heartiness. Dotard village's approach on Mussels hopes to bring a give it a new level of experience.